All About Acne

Very few people have genes that give them absolutely flawless skin. Chances are that even the most enviable skin was cleansed and lotioned into perfection. Here is the first in a series of beauty tips to fix the most common skin problems.

A common plague among teenagers and early twenty-somethings is Acne caused by blockages in follicles. Why some people get acne and others don't is still being researched. However, there are several factors that are known to be at least partially responsible.

• Acne tends to run in families. Often acne for this reason has an earlier occurrence and an increased number of lesions.
• Hormonal activity, such as menstrual cycles and puberty.
• Stress.
• Accumulation of dead skin cells.
• Bacteria in the pores. Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) is the bacterium that causes acne.
• Use of anabolic steroids.
• Any medication containing halogens (iodides, chlorides, bromides), lithium, barbiturates, or androgens.

Acne is not caused by dirt as is often believed. Though blackheads look like dirt stuck in the openings of pores, the color is not from dirt but oxidized keratin. In fact, the blockages of keratin that cause acne occur deep within the small follicle channel, where they can't be washed away.

Treatment

Treatment for acne tries to accomplish four main goals and every good acne medicine should be made to treat at least one. They should aim to normalize shedding into the pore to prevent blockage, kill the acne bacteria, reduce inflammation and manipulate certain hormone levels. Most reliable treatments won't show results for three months. If an acne medication guarantees results in two weeks, buyers will likely be very disappointed. It is a good idea to consult with a dermatologist before starting any acne medicine. The best treatments often have the most side-effects, and many need prescriptions anyway.

Some treatments that have proven effective:

• Cortisone shots can relieve inflammation.
• Topical bacteria treatments using benzoyl peroxide kills the bacteria that causes acne, P. acnes. Soaps or washes vary in strength from 2% to 10%. Studies have shown that using 10% benzoyl peroxide on mild to moderate acne saw a reduction in lesions after six weeks. Prescription strength topicals can usually penetrate deeper than the over-the-counter versions, but both work comparably.
• Topical and oral antibiotic treatments also aim to kill bacteria within follicles.
• Topical and oral retinoids normalize the follicle life cycle to prevent the excess keratin that blocks pore. Initially, the face may flare up as the skin is "flushed," but it should return to normal fairly quickly.

Some other over the counter aids more geared toward mild acne include:

• Localized heat can be used on a developing pimple to kill the bacteria and speed healing.
• Ibuprofen can reduce inflammation.
• Vitamin B3 used as a topical has proven to be more effective than comparable prescription topicals. Also, it has fewer side-effects.
• Tea Tree Oil is somewhat comparable to benzoyl peroxide without causing dryness.
• Zinc can reduce inflammation.

Treating Acne Scars

It is important to realize that acne scars might not actually be scars. If they are actually just marks, they should clear up within seven months. Here are a few treatment options if acne scars are the issues:

• Dermabrasion: a cosmetic medical procedure that "sands" off the top layer of skin. The procedure is painful and requires general anesthetic. It is very useful if scars are on the surface of the skin, but patients will leave with red, raw skin afterward that will take several months to heal.
• Microdermabrasion is a cosmetic procedure that sprays the face with abrasive crystals to remove the epidermis. It can help with deeper scars.
• Laser therapy works to soften scar tissue and remove damaged cells deep into the dermis. Patients may need anywhere from one to three treatments.
• Subcision is used for deep, rolling scars. It separates skin layers so blood can flow through them, eventually evening skin.
• Chemical peels smooth the texture of the skin using a chemical solution. The solution causes skin to blister and eventually peel off. The regenerated skin is usually smoother and less wrinkled and scarred than the old skin.